If you are prone to acne, you have probably tried everything to eliminate it: stronger facial cleansers, scrubs, pore strips, steaming, or even squeezing.
But what if some of these things not only don't help but actually worsen the situation?
To understand the formation of acne and blackheads, it is first important to know that we are not simply talking about "dirty pores". Multiple processes can lead to clogged pores and inflamed acne.
Let's take a look at what is actually happening in the skin!
What are acne and blackheads?
Acne-prone skin, or acne, is a skin problem related to the functioning of hair follicles and the associated sebaceous glands.
The first step in the process is when sebum and dead skin cells accumulate in the pore, and clog it.
From here, various types of lesions can develop.
Blackhead – open comedo
A blackhead is a dark-colored lesion that forms in an open pore. It is usually not painful and not inflamed.
Whitehead – closed comedo
In this case, the pore opening is closed, resulting in a small, whitish or skin-colored bump appearing on the skin.
Papule and pustule – the classic acne
If inflammation develops in the pore, a red, sensitive bump may appear. If it has a whitish, pus-filled tip, we refer to it as a pustule.
Nodes and cysts
These are larger, deeper lesions that are often painful.The risk of scarring is greater with these, so it is advisable to seek the help of a dermatologist.
How does acne develop? – 4 main factors
The development of acne cannot be attributed to a single cause. Several processes are interconnected.
1. Too much sebum is produced
The sebaceous glands are responsible for producing sebum, which naturally protects and lubricates the skin.
However, if too much sebum is produced, clogged pores can more easily develop.
Hormones also play an important role in sebum production. This is why acne-prone skin is so common during puberty, but hormonal changes can also affect it in adulthood.
2. Dead skin cells accumulate
Normally, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin continuously shed.
In the case of acne-prone skin, however, these cells can more easily accumulate in the pores when mixed with sebum.
Thus, a so-called comedone, or pore plug is formed.
3. Cutibacterium acnes also plays a role
The Cutibacterium acnes is naturally found on our skin.
However, a clogged pore rich in sebum can create a favorable environment for it. The bacterium alone is not "the cause of acne," but it can contribute to the increased inflammation in the clogged pore.
4.Inflammation develops
When inflammation occurs in the environment of the pore, the well-known may appear:
- redness,
- swelling,
- sensitivity,
- pain,
- pus-filled pimple.
This is the point when a simple clogged pore can indeed develop into an inflamed pimple.
But then why is the blackhead black?
This is one of the most common misconceptions: the blackhead is not dirt.
Inside the blackhead, there is sebum and dead skin cells. The difference is that the pore is open, so its contents come into contact with the air, and its surface oxidizes, which is why it darkens.
In other words, no matter how many times you wash it, the "dirt" will not come out of it.
Moreover, excessive cleansing and scrubbing can irritate, dry out the skin, and disrupt the skin barrier.
What you think is a blackhead may actually be a sebaceous filament
The small, regular, grayish or yellowish dots visible on the nose and certain areas of the face are not always blackheads.
They may be sebaceous filaments .
Sebaceous filaments are natural parts of the pores that help sebum reach the surface. Everyone has them, and they cannot be completely eliminated – nor is it necessary.
However, their appearance can be moderated with proper skincare.
Products containing salicylic acid, or BHA, for example, can help keep the pores clean.
What else can cause acne?
Several factors can play a role in the development of acne, ranging from genetic predisposition to hormones and skincare habits.
Hormonal changes
Changes during puberty, the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, or certain contraceptive methods can also affect the skin's oil production.
If acne appears suddenly in adulthood in a way that was not previously characteristic, especially if accompanied by other hormonal symptoms, it is advisable to consult a doctor.
Genetic predisposition
If several family members have had or have acne, you may have a higher predisposition to acne-prone skin.
This also means that your acne is not necessarily due to "poor skincare" of your skin.
Diet
Some studies have found a correlation between a high glycemic load diet and acne, and in certain cases, a correlation with dairy consumption has also been observed.
However, this varies from person to person, so there is no single food whose elimination would eliminate acne for everyone.
Stress
Stress can also affect sebum production and inflammatory processes. Therefore, it may happen that during a more stressful period, you suddenly experience more acne.
Inappropriate cosmetics
Very heavy, oily, or formulations unsuitable for your skin can contribute to clogged pores.
Hair care products can also cause problems: for example, if styling products regularly come into contact with the skin on the forehead or temples, pimples may appear there as well.
Friction and pressure
The phone, mask, helmet, or other objects that regularly touch the skin can also exacerbate problematic skin.
What can you do against blackheads and pimples?
The goal is not to "overwash" your skin, but to prevent pore clogging and support the skin's balance.
1. Clean gently but thoroughly
For acne-prone or oily skin, a cleanser containing salicylic acid may be a good choice.
A Maruderm Salicylic Acid Cleansing Gel for Normal and Oily Skin contains salicylic acid and is specifically designed for cleansing normal and oily skin.
However, excessive cleansing is not the goal here: the skin does not need to have all its natural lipids removed.
2. Use BHA to cleanse the pores
Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble BHA, which can be particularly interesting for skin with blackheads and clogged pores.
The Maruderm BHA Pore Cleansing Tonic contains salicylic acid, niacinamide, and panthenol. It is designed to reduce the appearance of clogged pores and excess sebum.
If you are looking for a more practical, padded solution, the Maruderm 2% Salicylic Acid & 5% Niacinamide Tonic Pad – Cleansing & Sebum Regulating may be an interesting choice. The 2% salicylic acid helps to cleanse the pores, while the 5% niacinamide supports a more balanced appearance of the skin.
Important: do not start using all exfoliating products at once. Your skin does not need to be "cleansed" from multiple directions at the same time.
3. Don't forget about hydration!
Acne-prone skin also requires hydration.
Moreover, excessive drying and exfoliation can lead to irritation, so a suitable moisturizer is also important in the routine for problematic skin.
The goal is not to completely "dry out" the pimples, but to keep the skin balanced.
4. Azelaic acid can also be a good choice for acne and post-acne spots
Azelaic acid can be used for various problems, making it an interesting active ingredient for acne-prone and post-acne spotty skin.
The Maruderm 10% Azelaic Acid Face Serum contains 10% azelaic acid, and also supports hydration with panthenol and hyaluronic acid. It is recommended for skin with acne and post-acne spots.
5. Sunscreen is also important for acne-prone skin
Many people skip sunscreen because they are afraid it will make their skin feel greasier.
However, daily sun protection is especially important if pigmented spots easily remain after breakouts.
For combination or oily skin, the Maruderm SPF 50+ sunscreen for combination and oily skin offers a lightweight, fast-absorbing formula with SPF 50+ and PA++++ protection. The formula also contains niacinamide, panthenol, allantoin, and zinc-PCA.
What you should rather not do
❌ Do not scrub your skin harshly
Physical exfoliation does not solve the problem of clogged pores, but it can irritate the skin.
❌ Do not squeeze blackheads and pimples
Squeezing can easily damage the skin around the pores, increase inflammation, and raise the risk of scarring or post-acne spots.
❌ Do not use toothpaste on acne
Some ingredients in toothpaste can irritate the skin, so it is not advisable to use it as a home remedy for acne.
❌ Do not think that the sun will "dry out" acne
Sunlight may temporarily improve the visibility of acne, but that does not mean it treats acne. Moreover, UV radiation can contribute to the darkening of spots that develop after acne.
When should you see a dermatologist?
Not every acne requires medical treatment, but there are situations when it is worth seeking professional help.
Consult a dermatologist if:
- deep, painful lumps or cysts appear,
- you see scarring or indentations on the skin,
- there is no improvement after several months of consistent skincare,
- acne suddenly and severely appears in adulthood,
- the pimples are accompanied by hormonal symptoms,
- or the skin problem significantly affects your well-being.
Early, appropriate treatment can help reduce the risk of permanent scarring.
In summary
The development of acne and blackheads is not simply a result of improper cleansing.
Several factors may be behind this:
excess sebum production + accumulation of dead skin cells + clogged pores + inflammation.
Hormonal changes, genetic predisposition, stress, certain dietary factors, inappropriate cosmetics, or even continuous friction on the skin can contribute to this.
Therefore, the most important thing is not to cleanse your skin as aggressively as possible, but to develop a consistent, targeted, and gentle routine.
A suitable cleanser, a BHA or other targeted active ingredient that meets your skin's needs, hydration, and sun protection every morning can do much more for acne-prone skin than aggressive cleansing or squeezing.